The High-Altitude Table

The High-Altitude Table · Chapter 2

Mediterranean and alpine

Olive oil, herbs and wild alliums.

The lake belt grows thyme, rosemary, mint, parsley and sage in kitchen gardens, and the hills add wild alliums and a pepper that tastes of citrus peel. These five dishes keep the structure of Mediterranean cooking and let the local aromatics supply the flavour.

Jambu and timur focaccia

Olive oil bread with a mandua crumb and a hill-spice finish

Serves 8Time 3½ h, 25 min baking

A wet, open dough that carries about 18% finger millet flour for a nutty, slightly sweet crumb. The jambu goes on after baking, in warm oil, because in the oven it would burn.

Ingredients

  • 270 g bread flour or maida
  • 60 g mandua flour
  • 8 g fine salt
  • 3 g instant yeast (a scant 1 tsp)
  • 265 ml water at room temperature
  • 30 ml olive oil for the dough, plus 60 ml for the tin, the dimpling and the finish
  • 1 tsp jambu
  • ½ tsp timur, freshly crushed
  • Flaky salt

Method

  1. Stir flour, mandua, salt, yeast and water to a shaggy dough. Cover and rest 30 min.
  2. Add 30 ml oil and fold the dough over itself in the bowl for 2 min. Do three sets of stretch-and-fold, 30 min apart, then leave it covered.
  3. Oil a 30 × 22 cm tin with 20 ml oil. Tip the dough in, stretch it gently towards the corners and let it rest, covered, about 45 min until puffy. Heat the OTG to 220 °C.
  4. Oil your fingers and dimple the dough to the bottom of the tin. Pour 20 ml oil over it. Bake on the lower rack 22–25 min until deep gold.
  5. Meanwhile warm 20 ml oil in a small pan until barely shimmering, take it off the heat, stir in the jambu and leave it 1 min.
  6. Brush the jambu oil over the hot bread, scatter the crushed timur and flaky salt, and cool 10 min before cutting.

At this altitude the first rise is quick. If the dough doubles in the tin before 45 min, bake it; it is better slightly under-proofed than collapsed.

Faran butter tagliatelle

Hand-cut egg pasta, roasted garlic, tejpat butter

Serves 4Time 1 h plus 30 min resting

Tejpat in butter gives a faint cassia warmth that suits a plain pasta. The sauce is an emulsion: butter, starchy pasta water and vigorous tossing.

Ingredients

  • Pasta
  • 300 g maida or 00 flour
  • 3 eggs plus 1 yolk
  • 1 tsp salt
  • Sauce
  • 60 g butter
  • 1 tejpat leaf
  • 6 faran stalks with bulbs, sliced (or 100 g garlic chives and 1 clove garlic)
  • 6 cloves garlic, roasted soft
  • Zest of ½ lemon
  • 30 g hard cheese, finely grated
  • Black pepper

Method

  1. Mix flour, eggs, yolk and salt to a stiff dough. Knead 8–10 min until smooth. Wrap and rest 30 min.
  2. Roll very thin, about 1 mm, dust with flour, fold loosely and cut into 6–7 mm ribbons. Toss with flour and set on a tray.
  3. Roast the garlic cloves in foil at 180 °C for 25 min. Mash them to a paste.
  4. Warm the butter and tejpat on low for 3 min. Remove the leaf, add faran and cook 1 min without browning. Stir in the garlic.
  5. Boil the pasta in plenty of well-salted water for 3–4 min, until just tender. Keep 100 ml of the water.
  6. Add pasta and 60 ml of the water to the butter off the heat and toss hard for 30 seconds until glossy. Add cheese, zest and pepper; loosen with more water if needed.

A barigoule of hill vegetables

The Provençal braise, with local vegetables and a tart finish

Serves 4Time 50 min

A barigoule is traditionally made with artichokes braised in oil, wine and herbs. Artichokes are not a hill crop here, so this version uses what the terraces give: carrots, turnips, new potatoes, peas, and beans. If you do find globe artichokes, use four trimmed hearts in lemon water.

Ingredients

  • 80 ml olive oil
  • 8 small shallots, peeled
  • 4 cloves garlic, sliced
  • 3 small carrots and 2 small turnips, halved
  • 200 g small new potatoes
  • 100 g shelled peas and 100 g tender beans, added at the end
  • 150 ml dry white wine, or 100 ml water and 50 ml galgal juice
  • 150 ml water
  • 2 tejpat leaves
  • 4 sprigs thyme
  • Juice of ½ galgal or lemon, or a handful of ripe kafal in season
  • Salt, pepper, chopped parsley

Method

  1. Sweat the shallots and garlic in the oil, covered, over low heat for 6 min without colouring.
  2. Add carrots, turnips and potatoes. Pour in the wine and water, add tejpat and thyme, salt lightly, cover and braise on low 25–30 min until the roots are tender. In the pressure cooker, 5 min after full pressure.
  3. Add peas and beans for the last 5 min.
  4. Finish with the citrus juice or kafal and parsley. Taste for salt. Serve warm, with the focaccia to mop up.

Jhangora tabbouleh

Parsley, mint, lemon and barnyard millet in place of bulgur

Serves 4Time 35 min

Barnyard millet cooks quickly, stays separate and tastes faintly sweet. Timur does the work of the pepper that tabbouleh usually lacks.

Ingredients

  • 150 g jhangora, rinsed
  • 300 ml water and ½ tsp salt
  • 60 g flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
  • 40 g mint leaves, finely chopped
  • 3 tomatoes, seeded and finely diced
  • 3 spring onions, thinly sliced
  • 30 g walnuts, toasted and chopped
  • Juice of 2 lemons (about 60 ml)
  • 60 ml olive oil
  • ½ tsp toasted cumin, ground
  • ¼ tsp timur, freshly ground

Method

  1. Bring the water and salt to the boil, add jhangora, cover and cook on low 14–15 min. Rest 5 min, then spread on a tray to cool.
  2. Mix the herbs, tomatoes, spring onions and walnuts with the cooled millet.
  3. Whisk lemon juice, oil, cumin and timur. Toss through just before serving, then taste for salt and lemon.

Pahadi shakshuka

Eggs in spiced tomato with a jambu finish

Serves 4Time 40 min

Hill tomatoes are sweet and thin-skinned, which makes a quick sauce. The jambu ghee goes on at the end for a raw allium top note.

Ingredients

  • 3 tbsp oil
  • 1 onion, sliced
  • 3 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 tsp cumin seeds
  • 1 tsp coriander seed, freshly ground
  • 1 tsp mild chilli powder
  • 600 g ripe tomatoes, grated or chopped
  • ½ tsp salt
  • ¼ tsp timur, freshly ground
  • 4 eggs (or 200 g paneer in cubes)
  • 1 tbsp ghee and 1 tsp jambu
  • Chopped coriander leaf

Method

  1. Warm the oil, add cumin seeds until they sizzle, then onion and garlic. Cook gently 8 min.
  2. Stir in coriander and chilli, then the tomatoes and salt. Simmer uncovered 20 min until thick.
  3. Make four wells, break in the eggs, cover and cook 6–8 min at this altitude until whites are set.
  4. Warm the ghee until it melts, off the heat stir in the jambu, spoon over the eggs. Add timur and coriander leaf.

Walnut and wild mint pesto

Hill walnuts, basil and mint, with a lemon and timur lift

Serves 4, with pastaTime 30 min

Walnuts replace pine nuts, which the hills do not grow. Mint adds a cool edge, and a little timur stands in for the sharpness of aged cheese. Keep it cold: heat turns basil dark and bitter.

Ingredients

  • 60 g walnuts, toasted
  • 40 g basil leaves
  • 20 g mint leaves
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 60 g hard cheese, finely grated
  • 100 ml olive oil
  • Zest of 1 lemon and 1 tbsp juice
  • ¼ tsp timur, freshly ground
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 400 g dried pasta, or the tagliatelle above

Method

  1. Toast the walnuts in a dry pan over low heat 5 min, or at 160 °C for 8 min. Cool completely.
  2. Pound or pulse the walnuts with the garlic and salt to a coarse crumb.
  3. Add the herbs and pulse in short bursts, then add the oil in a thin stream. Stir in cheese, zest, juice and timur. Taste for salt.
  4. Boil the pasta in plenty of salted water, allowing a minute or two longer than the packet at this altitude. Keep 100 ml of the water.
  5. Toss the drained pasta with the pesto and 3–4 tbsp of the water off the heat, until glossy. Do not heat the sauce.

Keeps 2 days in the refrigerator under a film of oil.